That will affect te IC and the thing will be wheelie prone. The concern is that with the relocated uppers, you would need to raise the rear ride height enough to level out the control arm. I may pop some pics and psot them as well. I have heard others mention concerns towards the upper mount to the rear end. My car loves to be on the bumper and by doing this it will simmer everything down. I am however going to try taking the relocation brackets off of the uppers and make lowering brackets for the LCA's. I am currently using Team Z relocated uppers, a cut GT spring to achieve the correct height and a Strange 10 way. Ride height plays a big part in all this as things will change once the ride height is manipulated. These will give you the right angles, or close to it. OR, you can add a bracket to lower the rear portion of the LCA. Soupbean wrote: The easiest way to correct is to relocate the uppers with a relocation bracket like the ones Team Z sells. Last edited by yellowhorse7 on August 15th 2012, 8:08 pm edited 1 time in total I hope this helps.Įdit: Let me add for the RADIAL guys that if you were plot out a suspension, you'd be looking for an Anti Squat of just barely above 100% and an IC at below 50". The easiest way to correct is to relocate the uppers with a relocation bracket like the ones Team Z sells. The intersect point (Instant Center) is about 20 feet in front of the car! The leverage is horrible at that intersect point. FOX body cars have terrible factory geometry. Fast SS cars don't squat and they rarely wheelie.they just go!
Thhe trick is as close to level as possible, at race weight, or maybe a tick upward. If that point is too short and the LCA is pointing at a severe upward angle, the body seperates as described in the first scenario. If that intersect point is too far forward, or never intersects (which is the case when the LCA points down), the above scenario occurs. Imagine a point in front of the LCA and the UCA.This "point" is where they would intersect if there were some imaginary line extending the both of them. During this process the car apears to be squatting and trying to hook, but then boom, the cars blows the tires off. As the rear end is "wrapping" and the body is getting shoved down, the axle is unloading itself from the surface. If the LCA points down in front, the body now gets pushed down as well. Tires get hit too hard, it instantly hooks but then it'll blow the tires off by the 330 (or sooner). If the front of the LCA is pointing too far upwards it will shove the body up and the axle will drive straight into the racing surface. I've been out of the loop for quite some time and going to try to get back in it. Yellowhorse7 wrote:As the car sits at ride height, what do the lower control arms look like in the front? Dead level, pointing up, pointing down?
#TEAM Z INSTANT CENTER UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL AND FULL#
I have tried all over the board and even things that don't make sence but currently they are at what you suggested before and what has seem to work the best at 8 clicks off full loose on compression and 3 clicks on rebound. Good question! I was reading and learning more about ic and as last night. Convertor flashes 5200 massaged by Lenny this past winter. I have travel limiters but only run them one pass as the car didn't like/seem to need them them.Ĥ. With the 557 the car sat much lower but I had to put 10 turns in the coil overs to keep these foxbody headers that fit the 514 from dragging the ground as they hang very low (My custom a head headers tuck up tight to the bottom of the car so I can have a lower front stance). Where are the shock setting on the rear DA's? Those may be the source of your issue as wellġ. And too long of an IC and the car will act as if it's 100 feet long, meaning that it won't transfer the weightĦ. Where is the IC and the A/S? The A/S number, in most cases (not all) needs to be as close to 100% as possible, maybe slightly over. The slow motion vid kinda hides it though. Wheel speed is you friend and it looks as if there isn't enough. Don't remember reading it but that car needs a tube and a stiff wall tire IMOĤ.
Air pressure may be too low but I doubt it. Travel can be your friend or your enemy, depending on the A/S value.ģ. Lower it down to where you can only get your thumb in between the tire and the fender. I'd bet money it would like a 150, 14" springĢ. Yellowhorse7 wrote:Let's start with the basics.ġ.
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